We were the first five-star hotel in London to do it! To go totally gluten-free and dairy-free in our neighbourhood restaurant Indigo.
It was eight years ago that I realised it was a concept I wanted to pursue. The reason? Consumer demand. I saw an increase in the number of diners asking for dishes that didn’t contain either gluten or dairy, not necessarily because they had a specific allergy or dietary requirement but simply because it had become a part of their lifestyle. And as One Aldwych has always evolved to meet and reflect new philosophies, it felt like a good fit.
Putting the plan into action was a challenge at first. I did a lot of research and a great deal of trialling recipes. Leaving out gluten was easier because I could start by focussing on core ingredients such as fish, meat, vegetables and fruit – and as our food’s provenance has always been impeccable, those quality ingredients shone through.
Working without dairy was a bit harder, especially when it came to pastry. But once we developed our basic recipes, we were able to adapt them easily and lift them into something special. Not only that, every year, new plant-based products come onto the market, so we can be ever more experimental.
In fact, we have a brûlée that I made in honour of my mother who used to cook a simple apricot version for our family when I was a child. One day, when I was chatting with the chefs in the kitchen, I saw some amazing apricots come in, so I suggested we used my mother’s favourite dessert as inspiration. As soon as we dipped our spoon into the crispy, bubbling sugar topping, we knew we were onto a winner. Now, it’s always on the menu, although we change the fruits depending on the season.
Other favourite dishes include the fish and chips – the fish comes fresh from the British Isles overnight and we coat it in batter made from gluten-free beer. It’s so, so popular, it’s become a permanent fixture, no matter what the season. And the Cornish lamb for two is also well-loved.
The reaction from guests is what makes cooking this way so worthwhile because if you need or want gluten-free or dairy-free dishes, it delivers a different kind of dining experience – you can look at the entire menu and take your pick without worrying or being left with scant choice. Sometimes, international guests will say they heard about us for this very reason, which is why they make a point of coming. One guest from Australia, whose wife had coeliac disease, came to stay for the entire Christmas period. It’s very humbling to receive such amazing feedback.
Indigo is now open for lunch from Wednesday to Sunday and dinner from Monday to Saturday and the team look forward to welcoming you.
